2021-06-scottish-field-viognier-future-looks-peachy-languedoc-viranel--1-
Viognier has made a comeback from the edge of extinction and now has its own “international day”, as Peter Ranscombe reports.
IN A world of oaky chardonnays and acidic sauvignon blancs, viognier ploughs its own furough.
Famous for its combination of floral and peachy aromas and flavours, the grape is distinctive on its own or is used to add a perfumed lift to syrah blends.
Yet viognier almost died out in the 1960s.
Just 14 hectares of the grape were recorded in France’s agricultural census in 1968.
Now, the French total has soared to around the 10,000-ha mark, with global plantings somewhere north of 15,000ha.
Viognier’s renaissance will reach a fresh milestone on Friday with the first “international viognier day”.
The campaign to generate more interest in the variety is being driven by Australian producer Yalumba.
As we saw last spring, Yalumba has championed the grape, especially under the creative talents of winemaker Louisa Rose.
Part of the variety’s resurgence is due to its versatility with food; its rounded texture can balance spicy heat, while its ripeness is an ideal foil for salt.
It can be a pain for farmers to grow because it has to be left for a long time on the vine to reach full ripeness and develop its heady aromas and flavours.
But, when everything comes together, it creates a wine like no other.
A whistle-stop tour of the world’s viogniers reveals some exciting examples – both in France and further afield.
